The Shimano Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank snapped off just as I stood to pedal up a small hill.

I’m starting to feel like the poster boy for failed Shimano crank arms.

Dura-ace FC-9000 crank broken
This image shows the broken Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank arm moments after the crash.

It’s now happened to me twice. That’s twice that I was pedaling along happy as can be, only to suddenly find myself in a heap with the pedal and crank arm still attached to my shoe — but not the bike.

The first time it happened I was riding Ultegra cranks. This time it was Dura-Ace.

Click here for my post about the first incident.

A close up shows where the metal failed on the inside of the Dura-Ace FC-9000 Crank Arm.
A close up shows where the metal failed on the inside of the Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank arm.

The Incident

As I have done all summer, I headed out this evening for a ride on the greenway. I’ve been riding this loop whenever the weather and my schedule allow.

Less than five miles into the ride there is a small hill. I stood up for an extra bit of leverage and three pedal strokes later I was on the asphalt. I thought I had come unclipped from the pedal, but much to my surprise that was not the case.

I rolled over to find the pedal and fractured crank arm still attached to my shoe.

It had happened for the second time in three years!

I’m not great at selfie videos, but I tried to record what happened after the Dura-Ace crank failed.
My trusty Waterford after the Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank broke off.
The spot where my bike came to rest. Note the missing crank arm and pedal on the drive side. Fortunately, no damage to me or the bike.

Strange Creaking Noise

The drive train started emitting a strange creaking noise a few weeks ago. I had recently purchased a new pair of cycling shoes and the creaking started shortly thereafter. I had not bought new cleats as those from the old shoes still had a lot of wear on them.

It sounded like the noise was coming from the point where the cleat meets the pedal. I even unclipped on the right side and pedaled only with my left foot. The noise went away and I thought I had diagnosed the problem. A new pair of cleats would come when time permitted.

Further evidence that my diagnosis was correct came when I sprayed WD-40 on the pedal and the noise all but disappeared. If anyone has a theory — I’d like to hear it!

Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank failure
I took my shoe off and photographed the broken Dura-Ace crank still attached.

Only My Pride Was Hurt

Fortunately I wasn’t going very fast — less than 10 mph. My knee is a bit sore and there’s some road rash on my elbow. The cell phone spilled out of my pocket, but is none the worse for the wear. The back of my taillight fell off, but clicked back together just fine.

A runner came by shortly after the crash and asked if I was okay. Other than embarrassed, I was fine.

Why I thought it was my fault, as in why I was embarrassed – I don’t know.

The cast alloy wasn't strong enough.  The Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank just snapped while I was riding.

Not a Powerful Rider

As wonderful as it would be to say that I was trashing cranks with my strength like the Yankees have ripped through the American League this summer, that’s not the case. Some of my Strava and Facebook friends have already suggested, tongue in cheek — that I have too much power.

Anyone who knows me, knows that’s not the case.

In fact, (as I wrote in the Summer of Sarcoidosis) thanks to the chemotherapy treatments I’ve been receiving for sarcoidosis, I doubt I’ve generated more than 150 watts on any ride in 2019.

Sooo it’s probably not my fabulous leg strength that ruptured this Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank arm.

Broken Dura Ace fc-9000 crank, still attached to my shoe after the wreck.
Broken Shimano FC-9000 Dura-Ace crank. This shot shows how the alloy ruptured on the drive side crank arm.

Yes, It’s the Second Time

Two summers ago, I was powering up a longer hill and really going for it, when the same thing happened with my then relatively new Ultegra crank. Just like this time, I couldn’t imagine what had happened until I looked down to find the pedal and crank still attached to my shoe.

In that instance, I was going much faster, and miraculously landed between a sign post and a utility pole that were not much more than shoulder width apart when viewed from my angle of approach.

I was more than a little nervous about replacing the Ultegra cranks even though the shop got them covered under warranty — so I paid extra to upgrade to Dura-Ace.

So much for that!

Broken Ultegra crank arm.  The similarity to the Dura-Ace is scary.
This image shows how the Ultegra crank arm broke in the exact location in 2016.

Compare the pictures Ultegra and Dura-Ace.

When you look at the pictures of the two failed Shimano cranks side-by-side it’s uncanny how similar they look. In both cases the alloy that forms the basis of the crank arm fractured on the drive side, right next to the serial number.

Side by side.  Left Dura-Ace, right, Ultegra.  Same bad result.
On the left, my fractured Shimano Dura-Ace FC-9000 crank arm, Sept 2019. On the right, my Ultegra crank from 2016. Both broke in about the same place under normal use. Note that in both cases, it’s right next to the serial number.

Update: Approx. 2 weeks later. Shimano has graciously replaced the crank set including the front chain rings and even the front derailer — which my shop says is needed to make this work.

That’s about $500.00 retail.

I appreciate it.

Mt new replacement Dura-Ace Crank set
Here’s the new, replacement Dura-Ace crank set on my Waterford. Let’s hope these cranks don’t break.

Should there be a Shimano crank recall?

After the Ultegra crank failed, I wrote about it — and to this day — 3 years later — it’s still my most read blog.

Granted — that’s not saying much. It’s not like I’m writing for Velo News. But it does indicate that people are searching for info on failed Shimano cranks.

It doesn’t take a huge leap to believe they aren’t Googling this issue for their health.

They are looking online because something happened to them. Presumably because they had an problem with a Shimano crank.

Failer dura-ace FC-9000 crank
This shot shows the dead crank arm and chain rings on my failed Dura-Ace set up.

Warranty appreciated. But…

While it’s nice that Shimano is willing to replace the failed equipment, you have to wonder why they haven’t done a recall. The ramifications seem pretty obvious.

If a person is hammering, and the crank snaps off — like mine has twice — there’s a pretty good chance that someone gets hurt or worse. I’ve been lucky — but what about the next person?

I can tell you this — when that thing breaks, I don’t care if you have mad skills — you probably won’t be able to control your bike. If there’s a ditch or a car or a cliff — you’re at the mercy of the Gods and luck.

Frankly, I’d rather have the control.

Failed FC-9000 Dura Ace Crank
This image shows the unbroken side of the Shimano FC-9000 crank set.

My shop hasn’t heard of issues with the Dura-Ace FC-9000 set up — as they had with the Ultegra — but his Shimano rep, while he didn’t have any comment, didn’t seem surprised when the request came through and didn’t push back.

Not that I want them to.

I mean if they push back just to make it LOOK like the product is sound — that doesn’t solve the “problem” either, does it?

If you are reading this — and you’ve had an issue with a Dura-Ace crank — let’s hear about it in the comments. Let’s see how big this problem is.

In the meantime, be safe.